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Refit Fender LSR Nut

10/1/13

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Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret headstock Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Measure Action at Nut
1. The Ubiquitous Fender Strat.  I’ve just refretted this neck in order to sand a rather severe twist out of the fretboard.  Now it’s time to refit the LSR for optimal playability. 2. Mind the Gap.  Sanding the fretboard has left the nut about .015” too high on the bass side and about .003” too high on the treble side.  I’ll trim down the bottom of the nut seat in order to lower the nut.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Offset Nut Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Scribe Cut Line for Layout
3. Layout is Key.  I offset the nut and clamped it in place. 4. Scribing my maximum depth of cut line on the bass side.  The feeler gauge acts as a spacer which ensures my scribed line is the correct distance from the bottom of the nut-seat.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Chisel End of Nut Seat Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Score Rosewood
5. Starting the Cut with the chisel resting in the scribed line and the handle end of the chisel low.  I am only bringing the very end of the nut seat to it’s final depth with this first cut. 6. Scoring the Nut Seat will make it easier to cleanly cut away the waste.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Cut Rosewood Across the Grain to Lower Nut Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Sand Nut Seat with PSA on bottom of LSR
7. Removing the Waste.  I’m making a series of cuts starting at the bass side of the neck.  With each cut, I cut closer to the treble side.  In this way, I’ll cut away a small wedge from the bottom of the nut seat, leaving the treble side intact and removing all of the waste above the scribed line on the bass side. 8. Sanding the Nut Seat with some self-adhesive sand paper attached to the bottom of the nut will ensure good contact between the bottom of the nut and the nut seat.
Refit LSR Nut Fender Strat Sand Nut Seat Flat Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Layout Shim
9. Nut Seat is Set.  The sanding marks reveal that the nut seat is flat.  Now I’ll remove the sand paper from the bottom of the nut, reattach the LSR to the neck and string up the guitar to check my work. 10. Making a Shim for the bass side is necessary because I removed about .003” too much material from the bass side.  My stock LSR shims are all too thick so I’ve traced the shape of a stock LSR shim onto a .003” feeler gauge.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Tin Snips Shim Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Clean Up Rough Edges of Shim
11. Cutting Out the Shim with some tin-snips and a pair of channel locks will leave small serrated edges along the cut lines. 12. Cleaning Things Up.  The disc-sander gets rid of the serrated edges.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Final Shape Shim Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Add Shim Under Nut
13. Rounding the End of the shim with a small file gets rid of any burrs left by the sander. 14. Fitting the Shim.  With the guitar tuned to pitch and the LSR screws loose but in place, I press the shim in with the tip of a small flat-head screwdriver.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret Check action at Nut Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret
15. Checking My Work.  The gap between the bottom of the 6th string and the top of the first fret as I fret between the 2nd and 3rd fret is pretty small; about .003”. 16. The Gap between the bottom of the 6th string and the top of the 2nd fret is about .002” while I fret between the nut and the 1st string as well as the 3rd and 4th frets.
Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret LSR Nut with low action Fender Strat Refit LSR Nut After Refret All Done
17. The Shim is hard to spot and basically considered SOP when refitting or retrofitting a neck with and LSR or a locking nut. 18. Low Action.