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Tuning a Stanley Block Plane
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| 1. An Old Stanley Block
Plane. Available in droves through ebay and local flea-markets, these old workhorses are far superior to their contemporary counterparts. This particular speciman is a #9 1/2 standard angle block plane. I'm no block plane historian but I would guess that this tool was made some- time during the 1920's or 1930's. |
2. Breaking it Down. The first thing
I'll do is clean the tool. All of these little moving parts won't work right unless they're clean and lubricated. |
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| 3. Soaking the Parts. I've put
the knobs, lateral adjuster and ad- justable sole into a bath of naptha and sewing machine oil to soak for a while. |
4. Preparing the Iron (aka: blade).
This blade appears to be the original. It's marked with the stanley "sw", or "sweetheart" logo. These blades are better than the ones that came with stanley block planes in later years. It's still inferior when compared to the contemporary replacement blades made by such manufacturers as Ron Hock and Lie-Nielsen Toolworks. |
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| 5. Lapping the Iron. Since I'll
be tuning the frog to match the blade I first need to get the blade in shape. Lapping is just a fancy term for "flattening". I'm lapping this iron on a dead flat granite slab with some 180 wet-dry sandpaper. |
6. Cleaning the Depth Adjustment
Mechanisms. The order in which a plane is tuned is important because one adjustment to the plane will effect the other adjustments. A dull exacto blade is helpful for cleaning oxidation from the threads of the threaded rod. I'll follow this up with a good scrubbing of the depth adjust- ment mechanisms with naptha and an old toothbrush. |
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| 7. Removing the Depth Adjuster
with a punch. |
8. Truing the Blade Bed with self-
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| 9. Improved Contact Surface
between the plane and the blade will help reduce chatter during use. |
10. Flattening the Adjustable
Sole. A small mill file ensures that the pocket is true to itself. |
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| 11. Fitting the Adjustable
Sole to the Pocket. I've run a piece of 180 grit sandpaper through the mouth and over the toe. The small cuts in the paper will allow for the adjustable sole boss to fit into it's place in the pocket. |
12. Final Truing of the Adjust-
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| 13. The Tuned Adjustable
Sole Pocket. Once again, good contact will reduce chatter and ensure a flat sole. |
14. Lapping the Sole on a flat
surface with self-adhesive sandpaper. This is a messy job. |
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| 15. The Plane's Sole
Revealed. A couple of passes shows just how much the sole has distorted over the years. |
16. A Flat Sole is a must for fine
woodworking applications. |
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| 17. Sharpening the Blade in the
usual fashion. I'm grinding the bevel to 30 degrees. This will allow the plane to cut dense and figured hard- woods without incident. |
18. Sealing the Plane with
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| 19. Testing the Plane. This
tuned block plane cuts oak easily and the blade adjustment mechanisms function smoothly. This tool will create wood shavings as small as .001" thick. |
20. After a Tune Up this old
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| 21. A Tuned Stanley #9 1/2. |
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