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Martin 000-15S: Neck Reset
Related Topics: | Neck Reset | Saddle | Set Up |
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| 1. High Action is one symptom of a
guitar that could use a neck reset. High action alone does not necessarily mean that an instrument needs a neck reset. There are other factors such as an instrument's moisture content, truss rod and saddle that also play a role in action. The action at the 12th fret is 5/32". |
2. Measuring the Saddle Protrusion.
When a neck angle is correct, the action at the 12th fret of the E string should be roughly half that of the saddle's protrusion above the bridge beneath the E string. The saddle protrusion on this guitar is 6/32". If I were to lower the action on this guitar to 3/32" at the 12th fret by simply lowering the saddle, there would only be 1/16" of saddle protrusion at the 6th string and less than 1/16" of saddle protrusion at the 1st string. This would significantly hamper this instrument's tone. |
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| 3. Softening the Glue in preparation
for disassembally. A heat lamp does a good job of safely softening the glue beneath the fretboard tongue. A custom made heat shield protects the finish of the guitar from the lamp's heat. |
4. Loosening the Fretboard Tongue
from the top. An artist's pallette knife is a great tool for this job. |
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| 5. Removing the 13th Fret
will give me access to the back of this guitar's neck joint. |
6. Drilling Access Holes into the
back of the mortise and tenon joint. I'm drilling my 2 access holes right through the 13th fret slot. This will allow me to effectively hide the holes in the fretboard when the job is done. |
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| 7. The Neck Bolt Cover Plate
must be removed with a small disassembally knife in order to give me access to the neck bolt. |
8. A Bolted Neck. This guitar's neck
joint is both glued and bolted. You'll see what it looks like after I remove the neck. |
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| 9. Plugging the Hole in the Neck
Block with a cork will keep the steam I'll be using from unnecessarily getting inside the guitar and changing the instrument's humidity content. |
10. Steaming the Neck Joint.
An espresso maker with a radiator hose attached to the steam valve and a needle for inflating a basket- ball direct steam into the neck joint. Because I've drilled two holes into the neck joint, the majority of the steam will tend to circulate through the neck joint, rather than turning into water and soaking the guitar's neck block. |
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| 11. Removing the Neck with gentle
verticle rocking motions is necessary because lateral stress on a straight mortise and tenon neck joint could damage the neck block. |
12. The Extracted Neck. Before
the old glue re-hardens I'll remove the old glue with a sharp chisel. |
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| 13. Back Cutting the Heel will make
cutting the heel to change the neck angle easier, quicker and more accurate. |
14. Cutting the Heel will change the
neck angle. A razor sharp chisel is the tool of choice. A series of well planned and delicately executed fine cuts is all that's necessary. |
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| 15. Rough Thicknessing the Shims.
A block plane with a razor sharp iron can get these mahogany shims planed down to .5mm thick. |
16. Test Fitting the Shims.
I've sanded the shims with 220 grit sandpaper to coursen the surfaces. Now I'm clamping the shims (one at a time) to reveal where they are making contact with the tenon. The contact points become shinny as a result of contact with the tenon. |
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| 17. Final Thicknessing of the Shims.
A razor blade makes a good scraper to remove the shiny surfaces that make contact with the tenon. |
18. Ready to Glue.
The shims fit really tight and make full contact with the mortise and tenon. Next, I'll glue the neck and shims into the neck block's mortise with hot hide glue. |
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| 19. Gluing the Neck
with hot hide glue has to happen quickly since hot hide glue joints must be clamped within seconds of the glue's application. Three clamping cauls and five clamps hold the neck in place for 24 hours as the glue fully cures. |
20. Measuring the Action.
The action on the 6th string measures 3/32" at the 12th fret. A marked improvement over the 5/32" measure- ment exhibited by the instrument before the operation. |
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| 21. Proper Saddle Protrusion
from the bridge is no longer a hindrance to this guitar's action. |
22. A Properly Fitted Heel.
The neck reset is undetectable. |
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| 23. The Fretboard Tongue
also shows no sign of repair. |
24. A Properly Fitted New Bone
Saddle is a great improvement over the original factory micarta saddle. |
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