Epiphone Dove: Cracked Bridge

Related Topics: | Bridge Reglue | Epi. Dove Shim Saddle |

Note: There are multiple ways to rectify a cracked bridge. The method photo-documented below is not always the most appropriate method. We chose methods of repair for this instrument that could be executed quickly and obtain a few more years of structural stability without the labor charges exceeding the market value of this instrument.


1. A Cracked Bridge. Whenever something goes wrong with a guitar, there's a reason. It's always import- ant to understand the underlying pro- blem(s) that cause the symptoms a guitar exhibits. In this case the cracked bridge is a symptom and the causes are: the "ebony" from which this bridge was manufactured is not a very dense wood, the bridge itself is a bit thin by design (less mass to contend with the force of 180 or so pounds of string tension) and the bridge plate has developed damage from the ball ends of the strings.	2. A Damaged Bridge Plate. Many student model steel string guitars, such as this one, have bridge plates that are made from plywood. Although plywood is stiff because of the grain differential between the layers that make up the plywood the outer veneer and laminations deteriorate and chip out from pro- longed contact with the ball ends of the strings. As the bridge plate looses mass it ceases to adequately reinforce the bridge. I'll have to repair the bridge plate before I proceed with repairing the crack in the bridge.


3. Stripping the Bridge of its Finish. Now that I've repaired the bridge plate I'm ready to address the cracks in the bridge. I'll start by stripping the bridge of its finish with some 220 grit sandpaper from Stewart MacDonald.	4. Wicking Super Glue into the Cracks. I'm using thin viscosity super glue. We use the super glue sold by Luthier's Mercentile.


5. Creating Wood Dust. Before the super glue cures I'm sanding the bridge with 220 grit sandpaper. The wood dust created by the sandpaper will work its way into the crack and mix with the uncured superglue. This is a quick way of making a good wood filler.	6. Sanding off the Excess Glue. Now that my "wood filler" has had a chance to cure I'm sanding off the excess super glue that cured on the surface of the bridge. Again, I'm using 220 grit sandpaper. Next I'll use 400 then 600 grit sandpaper in preparation for polishing.


7. Polishing the Bridge. Some #000 steel wool followed by #0000 steel wool smooths out the surface of the bridge.	8. Cleaning the Bridge with mineral spirits gets rid of any residual finish dust, wood dust and sandpaper grit.


9. Counter-Sinking the Pin Holes. As I wait for the solvent to fully evap- orate I'll re-countersink the pin holes. Some excess "wood filler" cured in the pin holes necessitating this step.	10. Reaming the Pin Holes. This will get rid of any residual super glue that remains in the pin holes. Also, the overlay I afixed to this guitar's bridge plate needs to be tapered to match the bridge pins.


11. Re-Notching the Pin Holes. A small saw makes quick work of the excess wood filler that found its way into the string notches in the pin holes. I'm also notching the new bridge plate overlay.	12. Sealing the Bridge with Lemon Oil. Is quick and easy. It will probably take two or three applications to adequately seal the open pored bridge.


13. Cleaning out the Guitar. I shook all of the wood dust and other loose junk inside the guitar to one spot where I could access it via the soundhole with one of our shop vacs. Man, this vaacum cleaner really sucks!	14. A Crack Free Bridge. This repair, combined with the bridge plate overlay will stabalize the bridge and the top for a few years to come. A quick reminder: the methods of repair I'm applying to this guitar are not intended to establish long term structural stability. Rather, they are "quick fixes" that are meant to keep this budget instrument on the road for a while longer. Given the market value of this instrument, I don't think that more time con- suming repairs are in order.


15. Strung Up and Ready to Go.