N.B. Custom: Strap Button Replacement

Related Topics: | Body |


1. The Original Strap Button Pilot Hole on this guitar is too large for the replacement locking strap button the customer wants installed.	2. Marking the Drill Bit for Depth will prevent me from drilling the hole for my plug deeper than necessary. In choosing what size plug to drill out for, I look for dowel stock that is smaller than the foot- print of the strap button but larger than the original pilot hole.


3. Drilling in Reverse prevents unwanted chipping of the finish. I'll drill the first two millimeters or so of my plug hole in reverse, that's enough to ensure that the flutes of the drill bit are subsurface, thus preventing chipping of the lacquer.	4. Drilling the Plug Hole.


5. Cleaning things Up with our shop's vaccum's rubber hose attachment.	6. Removing Oxidation from the Plug. This oak dowel has been hanging around the shop for a year. That's plenty of time for unwanted oxidation to occur on the surface of the dowel. Oxidation will inhibit the strength of the glue joint. Normally, I would fabricate a plug for this type of job. In this case, that is unecessary as a stock dowel has the proper grain orientation to match that of the guitar.


7. Applying the Glue into the plug hole with a plastic toothpic. I'm using "titebond" brand alaphatic resin glue for this task.	8. Trimming the Plug Flush is a quick affair with the aid of a razor sharp chisel.


9. Drilling the Pilot Hole for the replacement strap button.	10. Color Matching the Plug isn't necessary since the replacement strap button will hide the plug. Still, it only takes a couple of minutes and it will help hide the modification should a future repair person install a smaller strap button.


11. Screwing in the Replacement Button. Notice the small piece of felt around the screw between the button and the body of the guitar? I've put the pad there to prevent the new button from creating an in- dentation in the surrounding lacquer.	12. All Done!